Lent’s not a bad rationale for grabbing something fried, grilled and forever foldable from our favorite taquerías and restaurants — like we need an excuse to order fish tacos in San Antonio.
Right now, the Taste Team’s favorite fish taco comes from Fish Lonja, the walk-up seafood taco bar behind South Side superstar Carnitas Lonja. We found more good fish taco options from North Side standard-bearer La Fogata, the West Side mariscos shop El Siete Mares, the popular Medical Center spot Sangria on the Burg and the Laredo transplant Marla Restaurant on Old Highway 90.
As the coronavirus crisis plays out, it’s probably not a bad idea to check each restaurant’s social media for revised hours, carry-out and delivery options before heading out.
Fish Lonja
This courtyard fish taco stand behind San Antonio taco phenom Carnitas Lonja specializes in Sinaloa-style fried fish tacos ($5) with feather-light batter and dressed with spicy cabbage slaw, avocado and cilantro on one of the city’s best handmade corn tortillas. They’re only available Thursday through Sunday starting at 11 a.m., and they sell out fast. 1107 Roosevelt Ave. behind Carnitas Lonja, 210-612-3626, Facebook: @Lonja17
La Fogata
The margaritas with the orchid flowers put on a good show, but fish tacos here radiate substance over style with grilled mahi-mahi, purple cabbage, tomatoes and onions on a half-crispy corn tortilla shell ($18 for three with rice and grilled vegetables). 2427 Vance Jackson Road, 210-340-1337, lafogata.com. Also at 22211 Interstate 10 Frontage Road, 210-698-9700.
El Siete Mares
Shrimp consommé, tostadas, pickled onions, salsa fresca. That’s how this West Side mariscos shop prepares you for what’s next, and what’s next is a Baja fish taco fried tempura-style all light and crisp with lettuce, carrots and sweet mayo ($3.75). 3831 W. Commerce St., 210-436-6056, elsietemaressa.com
Sangria on the Burg
A smart quartet of fruit sangrias can calm the nerves in these troubled times, and a plate of fish tacos can give you the strength you need to power through. Especially when they’re grilled over wood flames and dressed with pineapple slaw, avocado and queso fresco with strawberry salad on the side ($12). 5115 Fredericksburg Road, 210-265-3763, sangriaontheburg.com
Marla Restaurant
The best value in this report comes from this tiny Mexican cafe, where a Baja fish taco incorporates two fillets in feathery beer batter, chipotle aioli, coleslaw and pico de gallo on a handmade corn tortilla for just $3. 510 Old Highway 90 W., Suite 101, 210-462-9505, Facebook: @MarlaRestaurantSA
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